After a HORRENDOUS flight from Beijing to Frankfurt on AirChina (I have vowed NEVER to fly with them again!) and a six-hour stop-over, Ephraim and I finally reached Wroclaw (my home town), Poland. A good friend of mine, Aska, picked us up and drove us to my mother’s house on the outskirts of the city (a place where I grew up). I was feeling excited and apprehensive at the same time. I wanted to see my family and friends, visit the places in the city that I was connected to through experiences of my childhood, teenage years, and young adulthood; I wanted to share them with E. I was curious to see the city I had left almost eight years ago and last visited six years ago. I heard of great changes and modernization that had taken place during my absence. At the same time, I felt I had changed and “outgrown” Poland, my family, and my friends and I was worried that my encounters may be challenging…
Because Aska chose a “scenic” route from the airport, I was afforded glimpses of the “new” Wroclaw. There were places in the city that I could not recognize anymore! Old building and plazas had vanished to make room for modern corporate and commercial complexes. Overall, the changes were good but I did feel somewhat sad seeing as some of my past in this town was erased.
On the other hand, once unpacked, settled in and my bearings regained, I discovered that the city has preserved many locations with personal meaning to me.
The city’s Main Market Square, the “Rynek” (the second largest in Europe), skillfully restored after WW2 to recall the Baroque splendour of its heyday and carefully maintained, has retained its former glory. This place never sleeps; boasting myriad businesses, restaurants, night clubs, and art venues, it bustles with life twenty-four hours a day:
Adjoining the Market Square is the equally beautiful “Plac Solny” (Salt Market). Many a nobleman built his mansion on this prime spot and today you can admire their colorful facades whilst perusing the picturesque flower market that trades on the square itself. E enjoyed chasing pigeons there after having ice-cream at my favorite ice-creamery also situated there:
Also adjoining the Rynek is the towering St. Elizabeth's Church. Built in the 14th century, the Gothic monster is one of the city's most famous landmarks and offers splendid vistas from its viewing tower. E could not care less about the church. He spent a bit of time entertained by the “newly” (for me) built fountain:
North of the Old Town, penned in between the Rynek and the river Odra, is the University Quarter. This lively area is dominated by the main building of the Wroclaw University (only one of many buildings-departments strewn across the city).
Also, Wroclaw is defined by its great sprawling river, Odra, with its numerous tributaries and canals, as well as by the 12 islands and over 120 bridges that cross it. With so many waterways and spans it is not surprising that Wroclaw has been dubbed as the “Venice of Poland.”
To soak up some student vibes and to reminisce I led E up Kuznicza Street where the department of English Philology is located.
Past the Wroclaw University Quarter and over the river is Ostrow Tumski.
On the very site of Ostrow Tumski, sometime in the 9th century (when Ostrow Tumski was an island), the first permanent settlers of Wroclaw, the Slavic Slezan tribe, built their stronghold. The main attraction of Ostrow Tumski is St. John’s Cathedral (St. John the Baptist is the patron saint of Wroclaw). The work on the existing cathedral began in the 13th century. The cathedral is notable for its 91 meter twin towers,
as well as its 16th Century altarpiece of the sleeping Virgin Mary, 151 pipe organ, and its numerous motifs and gargoyles on the exterior - many with accompanying legends.
The cathedral is overlooking the Botanical Gardens - originally established in 1811. The gardens ccupy a large swath of land behind the churches of Ostrow Tumski. During our stay in Wroclaw, E and I made a couple trips to the Gardens - waterfalls, fountains, bridges, statues, shrubs, flowers and greenery make for a very pleasant stroll and careless frolicking:
One day, I took E to visit the Wroclaw Zoological Garden. I had not been there since my niece (now 17) was 4! From that time, Wroclaw zoo equaled small concrete cages and forlorn animals in my mind. I was relieved to see that the place had undergone some positive changes as well. It was still a far cry from our beloved Auckland or Singapore zoo’s but it was not as tragic as I remembered it. The City Zoological Garden in Wroclaw was originally established in 1865 (which makes it the oldest zoo in the country). It has the largest collection of animals in Poland, with almost 7,000 in number from 600 different species, in an area covering 33 hectares:
E enjoyed the animals as much as the "high" ropes course:
Right across the street from the Wroclaw Zoological Garden is a Hala Ludowa (People’s Hall), UNESCO listed as one of the World's most important cultural sites. Apparently, it all began when Wroclaw was still the German city of Breslau. The powers that be wanted to commemorate the hundredth birthday of defeating Napolean in the Battle of Leipzig. It was decided that an exhibition hall be built. And thus “The Centennial Hall” (as it was then known) came into existence in the form of this monument of modernism. The Hall occupies 295,000 cubic metres to be precise and stands a towering 42 metres high, including a 23 metre dome. In front of the main entrance to Hala Ludowa is Iglica a 96 metre high steel spire erected in 1948 to commemorate the “Restored Lands Exhibition.”
Adjacent to Hala Ludowa is Pergola, the large semi-circular colonnade, which makes for a pleasant stroll. The pond/fountain that Pergola encircles becomes a popular ice-rink in winter (a relatively new development although I had always thought it would be a great idea!).
Venturing East and across the street is my favorite park in town, Park Szczytnicki. I have many fond memories tied to this park starting with my family’s autumn trips to collect chestnuts, through my teenage years of soulful strolls and romantic rendezvous.
My favorite place in the city is Wzgorze Partyzantow (Partisans' Hill), formerly Treasure Bastion, featuring the only existing entrance to a system of the city's underground tunnels. Although I have never ventured underground, I spent a lot of time on the hill daydreaming in solitude, accompanied by my dates or partying with friends. Sadly, over the years the place has been slowly falling into ruin.
Before E and I left Poland at the beginning of June, I spent a weekend with a Kiwi friend of mine, Michelle (currently residing in London) in Krakow. I love Krakow! I have been there a few times in my life and every time I visit the city I uncover it a bit more. For centuries Krakow was the capital of Poland until the end of the 16th century. Nowadays, it is unquestionably the country’s “cultural capital.” Krakow boasts the biggest in Europe Market Square. The city is also famous for its renaissance Royal Castle at Wawel - the seat of Polish kings from the eleventh to the early seventeenth century, the gothic St Mary's Basilica and the historical trade pavilions of the Cloth Hall (“Sukiennice”) situated on the Market Square,
and the formerly separate Jewish city of Kazimierz – Jewish culture flourished here from the 15th century until World War II.
Saying good-bye to family, friends and the city I got reacquainted with, I experienced a mixture of emotions: happy I had a chance to come back here, excited and looking forward to our new adventure and nostalgic about leaving behind one place that I ever called home.
As much I wish I had, I did not possess all the historical data regarding the Wroclaw or Krakow. I gathered most of the information for this post from www.wroclaw-life.com and www.cracow-life.com
